Suiting the Beatles and Stones
No writer listed
The Runcorn Guardian
June 2, 1966
"All four Beatles have changed so much in three years."
"Mick Jagger is very funny about his shirts."
"I've been responsible for some of the most outrageous clothes seen this century."
Those were among the revealing comments passed at the London workshop of Alfred Maron, Duggie Millings, and Philip Stevens. Between them, they satisfied the suit-and-shirt whims of many of the show-business elites, including the Walker Brothers, Roger Moore, and PJ Proby.
The next fashion surprise could be the kitchen towel look, unless designer Paul McCartney comes up with something first! Chelsea boutiques may capture Britain's dedicated followers of fashion, but it is Soho's alleyway tailors whose styles tempt the stars. These dressers of the show business elite, including Duggie Millings, who makes suits for the Beatles, Tom Jones, and Chris Andrews, Alfred Maron, who serves Roger Moore and the Shadows. And Philip Stevens, whose shirts are worn by the Rolling Stones, the Beatles, and PJ Proby.
"It all started with Adam", joked Duggie Millings. "I was making suits for Adam Faith when the Beatles asked him if he knew a tailor. That was when they had just started, and I have been making their clothes ever since. I have made all their stage suits for them, 12 different designs over the past three years.
"They no longer come in for fittings as we have all their measurements, though John sometimes calls if he's putting on a bit of weight." Often Duggie drives to the Beatles' homes to fit their new suits before the final stitching, and he still charges no more than he did when John, Paul, George, and Rinko called for their first stage suits, the famous Beatle Jackets, early in 1963.
"I make this a rule", says Duggie. "My prices are the same for everybody. I sell my suits for between £35 and £40, no matter who the customer is. I don't try to push the price up just because I know they can afford to pay more."
While we were talking, Duggie was finishing a tweed sports jacket for Billy Fury. "He's changed a lot," said Duggie. "Very conservative dresser now, used to be a rocker, but Billy has dropped all that. You'd be surprised how many people's tastes change once they become successful. When Tom Jones came to see us, he only wore those short box jackets. Now his coats are longer. Adam Faith always has black suits now, and Chris Andrews is also very somber. That boy is no mug. He used to be a tailor's cutter himself, so he knows whether a suit is good or not. Chris likes silk suits in the ordinary three-button style, but he's also had a Chesterfield overcoat from us. It cost him £35 10 s.
"Any time now," exclaimed Duggie, "Paul McCartney will come in with some design for new suits. He designs all the Beatles' stage clothes now."
Duggie's main rival is pint-sized Alfred Maron, who has his workshop next to the famous Flamingo Club. Maron, just five feet two inches, and well known as a character actor, usually stands at his tailor's bench in a long, badly fitted gray jumper and old slacks.
He admitted, "I've been responsible for some of the most outrageous clothes seen this century." His clients include Roger Moore, Acker Bilk, Patty Klaus and Gibson, Hank Marvin of the Shadows, Matt Monroe, and the Koobas. "Remember those flowered pattern trousers, the Koobas wore? Well, that was my idea. Ridiculous, wasn't it? But you wait until you see our next outfit for them: suits made from kitchen towels!
"And those waistcoats, and bowler hats, Acre Bilk, and his band, like? We started them too. One of our best ideas, I think.
"Hank Marvin has been coming to me for years. You see that camel Chesterfield coat there with the yellow silk lining? Well, we've just made that for Hank. That's going to cost him something," joked Maron, who resets many of his customers in the film and television studios when playing one of the old lag roles in which he specializes.
Above his shop is the workshop where Philip Stevens hand-tailors shirts for many of the top British and American stars. His only big competitor is Esquire of Glasgow.
Stevens, a handsome 28-year-old Italian, works in two tiny attic rooms. His wife operates an old treadle sewing machine. His name, hardly known outside the entertainment business, apart from a few famous politicians, draws customers such as the Rolling Stones, the Beatles, Tom Jones, the Everly Brothers, PJ Proby, and the Small Faces.
"How did I get the Beatles custom?" asked Stevens. "Well, when they went to Duggie Millings for their first suits, he sent them to me for shirts, and they've been coming ever since.
"Paul and George come here most. Paul likes blue shirts with long, soft button-down collars, but George chops and changes. His favorite is a pink-and-mauve denim with black buttons and a soft button-down collar.
"All four Beatles have changed so much in the past three years. They have become much smarter and choose their shirts now to go with their suits. Before they were made to go with jeans. Paul even designs his own shirts and often sends me sketches, and I make them up from that, but I don't see much of John. He always wears those roll-neck jumpers."
His other clients include the Walker Brothers, who are having shirts made in many different colors with 42-inch sleeves and wide padded shoulders, and PJ Proby, who went to Stevens for his long open-thigh length stage shirts.
The Stones go mainly for check shirts, any color, any kind of check. Mick is very funny. He insists that the shoulders of a shirt fit like a well-made jacket, and of course, he's right